Pairing notes

Merlot: the grape, the taste and what to eat with it

Plum, chocolate and velvet: the soft, generous side of Bordeaux.

Where it grows

Merlot is Bordeaux’s most planted grape. It rules the right bank of the Dordogne, in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, where cooler clay soils suit it better than Cabernet. Pomerol’s most famous estates are almost pure Merlot.

It also grows widely across the world: in Italy, where it shines in Tuscany and Friuli, in Washington State and California, in Chile, and across southern France. It ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, so it does well in slightly cooler places and on cool, damp soils.

How it tastes

Ripe plum, black cherry and blackberry come first, with chocolate, mocha and sometimes bay leaf or herbs. Merlot is medium to full-bodied, with softer, rounder tannin than Cabernet. That is why it feels smooth and approachable even when young.

Cool-climate Merlot, as in Bordeaux, is fresher and more savoury, with red fruit and earthy notes. Warm-climate Merlot is jammier and fuller, often with sweet vanilla from new oak. The best right-bank wines age beautifully, turning towards truffle, leather and forest floor.

What to eat with it

  • Roast chicken: soft tannin and plummy fruit suit crisp skin and gravy.
  • Duck breast with cherry or plum sauce: the fruit in the glass echoes the sauce.
  • Mushroom risotto: an older Merlot’s earthy notes meet the mushrooms.
  • Pork tenderloin: a gentle meat for a gentle red.
  • Spaghetti bolognese: an Italian Merlot is juicy enough for a meat sauce.
  • Brie or Camembert: the soft tannin won’t turn bitter with creamy cheese.

A little history

Merlot is first mentioned in Bordeaux in the late 18th century. For a long time it played second fiddle to Cabernet, used to soften the blend. Pomerol changed that: its small estates showed that Merlot on clay can make some of the most sought-after wines in the world. In the 1990s Merlot became hugely popular abroad for its soft, easy style, then fell out of fashion for a while. Today winemakers are again proving how serious it can be, especially in cooler places.

One bottle to start with

Look for a Saint-Émilion or a Lalande-de-Pomerol for the classic Bordeaux style, rounder and more savoury than most New World Merlot. For a softer everyday bottle, a Merlot from Chile or from the Languedoc is easy to find and easy to drink.

Good to know

  • Merlot’s name is often linked to the merle, the French word for blackbird, which loves the ripe grapes.
  • DNA studies show Merlot is a half-sibling of Cabernet Sauvignon (both are children of Cabernet Franc) and of Malbec.
  • Serve it at 15–17 °C. Young Merlot rarely needs decanting.

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Photo: Pixabay

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