The cheese

The seasonal cheese in a spruce box, baked whole and eaten with a spoon. How it is made, when to buy it, and what to pour.

The soft, washed-rind cheese of the Savoie Alps, star of tartiflette. How it tastes, how to buy it and the wines that suit it.

The little goat’s cheese from the hills of Sancerre. How age changes it, how to eat it warm, and why Sancerre is the only answer.

England’s king of blues, made by a few dairies in three counties. How it tastes, how to serve it, and why Port is its best friend.

Italy’s great blue, creamy dolce or bold piccante. How to tell them apart, how to serve it, and the sweet wines that love it.

Spain’s famous sheep’s milk cheese with the zigzag rind. How age changes it, how to serve it Spanish-style, and the wines that match.

The washed-rind cheese of the Vosges valleys, bold outside and gentle inside. How to eat it like a local, and why Gewurztraminer wins.

Burgundy’s famous washed-rind cheese, rubbed with grape brandy. Why it smells so strong, how to eat it, and why white wine wins.

Switzerland’s great mountain cheese, nutty and sweet with age. How it is made, how to choose it, and the whites that suit it best.

The king of Italian cheeses, aged for at least a year. How age changes it, how to serve it in chunks, and the wines that match.

Normandy’s famous little round in its wooden box. What makes the real one different, how to pick it, and why cider loves it.

The original Brie, from the farmland east of Paris. How it is made, how to tell a ripe one, and the bubbles that love it.

France’s favourite mountain cheese, from the Jura. How it is made, how age changes it, and the wine that loves it most.